Tips Set 3
What is blister jacquard?
Diane Miller, a demonstrator/designer from New York, sends us this answer: Thanks! Diane.
Blister Jacquard is a double bed type of fairisle that exaggerates the contrast color design and adds a lot of texture to a garment. There is an 8 stitch x 8 row pattern displayed below. I'll call it Pattern A:
Row 8 XXXOOOOX
Row 7 XXOOOOXX
Row 6 XOOOOXXX
Row 5 OOOOXXXX
Row 4 OOOXXXXO
Row 3 OOXXXXOO
Row 2 OXXXXOOO
Row 1 XXXXOOOO
The X's are the black dots or punched hole in the pattern. The O's are left alone. For this pattern we are going to knit twice the number of rows of contrast color than for the main color. The extra rows are what forms the blistered look or bobbly look in the fairisle pattern. Changing the 8 x 8 pattern to an 8 x 48 pattern lets us accomplish our goal.
Take a look at row 1. If we were to change this for plain double jacquard, one method would be to knit 2 rows for each color. It would be punched out like this:
XXXX---- This would be 2 rows of knitting the CC over the same first 4 needles
----XXXX This would be be 2 rows of knitting the MC over the other group of 4 needles
You have to program in the blank O's as X's for the 2 rows of MC knitting; otherwise no needles would be selected to pick up the MC. For Blister Jacquard, we want the ratio of fairisle to be 2 to 1. We need to knit 4 rows of CC to every 2 rows of MC. Our first pattern row would translate to be knit like this:
XXXX----4 rows of the same four needles knit in CC
XXXX
XXXX
XXXX
----XXXX
----XXXX Then 2 rows in MC
You will be knitting 6 rows for each row of Pattern A. That's how the pattern gets stretched to 48 rows. If you increase the ratio to 3 to 1, then you'd have 64 rows or 6 rows of CC to 2 rows of MC. After you get the concept down, you can play around with different programming. For instance, I mark half the rows and then use my double length button on my electronic. Punchcard knitters can use their double length lever, if their machine has one. It certainly cuts down on punching either holes of computer buttons.
The first time I did this, I used graph paper and marked all the contrast color marks first. I went from Row 1 all the way up, leaving blank rows for the main color. Then I filled in all the background marks. It you take it row ~ row, it's not all that hard. I gave you a simple diagonal pattern to play with, but you can make just about any fairisle pattern into a blister pattern. It works best on areas that have lots of solid CC spots, like stars, circles, boxes, etc.
After you get your card or program done, you can start to knit. CO for full needle rib. Machine in half pitch. COR set to KC, knit 1 row to the left. Push in both Part buttons on the MB. Have the MB tension 1 full number higher than the RB for better texture. Use your ribber color changer for easy transfers.
*Push in both PR buttons on the RB. With CC, knit 4 rows. Change to MC, remove the RB part buttons and pull both MB end needles to D position. Knit 1 row. Pull both MB needles to D position and knit 1 more row. If you have KC1, use that and you won't have to manually select the needles*
Repeat from * to * for a beautiful raised stripe material with a solid color back for the wrong side. You are only knitting on the RB with the MC yarn. You can change the look ~ using different weights of yarns, number of rows you exaggerate the CC section, number of rows you knit on the RB, using the birds eye option on the ribber, or tucking on the RB.
If you have any questions, contact Diane at 76523.247@compuserve.com
How do you bind off/cast off the single rib at the neckline? So it has a nice clean edge and not a wavy uneven edge? I always do the fold over and tack down on inside just to avoid this problem.
Lona Wilson (Thanks!) answered this one for us:
Try this: Knit the last row of the
ribbing AT MAXIMUM TENSION (10+++) from RIGHT TO LEFT. Break
yarn. Move the stitches to the main bed, and knit several rows of
waste yarn at that same high tension. Remove from machine. If a
1x1 rib, with your LATCH TOOL, and the waste yarn folded back,
put the latch tool into the FRONT of the edge stitch (it should
be a KNIT stitch). Let that stitch go below the latch, and then
go into the BACK of the purl stitch, but bring that purl stitch
THROUGH the knit stitch. Now go into the FRONT of the next knit
stitch and pull it through (always leaving ONE stitch on the
latch hook). Continue in this manner, going into the FRONT of
KNIT STITCHES and the BACK of PURL stitches, until you are at the
end. Pull the tail through. Remove waste yarn. PERFECT edge. If
you are doing a 2x2 rib, go into the front of TWO knit stitches,
then the back of TWO purl stitches, pulling each one through as
you go.
Lona can be contacted through LONAWILSON@compuserve.com
How can I mark for a pattern in the middle of a garter-carriage pattern?
The easiest way to mark areas while working with the garter carriage is to use the point cams. They range from 1-point to 3-point cams. However, several cams can be used together; for example, 4 3-point cams would give you a 12-stitch section of plain stockinette. In that section you could cross a cable or make some hand-manipulated lace. If you wished, you could move the cams around to make different areas of stockinette within the garter-carriage pattern.
Spring and summer are coming. Any ideas on something quick for a cutsy top?
How about something with flowers? Several of the top designers are including various types of flowers and leaves in their designs. Ricki Munstock and Betsy Gettys both have books with lovely flowers. You could make a little flower pot, appliqué it to a sweater, knit some flowers in spring colors, and have them growing out of the pot, such as the one described in Tips Set #2. Pots are fairly basic shapes: you could have a square with slightly rounded corners, a rectangle, or a simple shape that is wider at the top than the bottom. If you wanted to add a small lip, simply add stitches on either side of either side about 1-2 inches from the top. A little saucer could be added on the bottom. If you really wanted to add a splash of color, you could duplicate stitch or put a row of fairisle design around the pot. Then make some green stems, some leaves, and top the whole thing off with the flowers. You could place the stems down inside the pot ~ leaving part of the top of the pot open when you appliqué it to your sweater. What about adding a tiny butterfly or bee up in one corner? Change the texture ~ getting a butterfly button or ~ using machine embroidery to make the bee.
In just a little bit of time, you have one unique, Spring-Is-Here sweater!
What about a quick way of making cables?
Here's an idea for an easy cable. Actually it isn't a cable at all, but a Faux Cable.
Cast on and work 2 rows in plain knit. Chose the section or sections you want to cable (5 stitches in each section). Within the section, take the 1st and 5th needle out of work ~ transferring its stitch to the needle to the right. Now you have 1 out of work, 3 in work, 1 out of work. Continue knitting. When you finish, you will have 3 stockinette stitches with ladders on each side.
Using the double-eye needle or a large tapestry needle threaded with matching yarn, begin with the first ladder on the left. Come up from behind the ladder, cross the 3 stockinette stitches and go into the matching ladder. Bring the thread 4 ladders straight up (on the same side), bring yarn to the front, cross the stockinette stitches, and take thread to the back. Continue bringing the thread up and across every 4 ladders all the way to the top of the knitting. On the wrong side of the knitting, pull the two ends of the yarn from the beginning and end together. The front may need some adjustment, but you will definitely have a cable "look." Tie off the two threads.
If you wish to put two sets together, you would have 1 out of work 3 stockinette, 1 out of work, 3 stockinette, 1 out of work. After knitting, you can wrap starting on the left with one set of 3 and starting on the right with the other set of three for a mirrored cable effect.