G-Carriage Tips, Tricks and Techniques

Compiled and edited ~ Lona Wilson LonaWilson@CompuServe.com

Getting Going

Always hit the "start" button when selecting patterning, so that when you move the carriage in to the knitting, it will flash number 1 row, instead of number 2 row.

Make sure the rubber wheels are in front of the gate pegs when you bring it to the needles in work. If they aren’t it will make a horrible sound, and it won’t knit.

Be certain it is threaded properly. The yarn should slide up and down behind the closed latch, and not be "caught" on anything. Be sure to CLOSE the latch.

In general, the G-carriage knits on tension looser than main carriage yarn. Experiment, as all G-carriages are not created equal.

For a better cast on, start on waste yarn.

When using the cast-on comb hang in back to front.......i.e. teeth facing you. The carriage goes over the cast-on more smoothly.

Hang the cast-on comb, LEFT of the gatepost and RIGHT of the needles. The first row will be smoother that way.

Use a crocheted cast-on rag. This is four to six rows of double crochet done tightly, with Knit-Cro-Sheen. The needles of the main bed are guided through the holes between the double crochets. Knit one K-carriage row with ravel cord. Double e-wrap with main yarn (bring 2 needles to E, wrap yarn around both needles, and catch yarn in the hook of the first needle on the left. Pull that needle to B. Bring the third needle to E, e-wrap yarn around both, catch in latch of second needle on the left and pull that through to B...continue until the entire bed is cast on)

You do not need to needle in the G-carriage to cast on. Remove the needle and HOLD IT IN YOUR HAND. Cast on as normal until row is complete and carriage is on the other side. NOW, put the needle back in, program your pattern, continue.

For 2X2 rib cast on with an odd number needles on each side to have a good seam: Example: 83-0-83 (166 sts). This keeps the two end stitches on the top bed on both sides.

Watch the G light when doing full bed knitting. As the G-carriage passes the turn mark, when the second magnet passes the turn, the light should come on. This should occur on both sides of the bed.

You can cast on with the INPUT button as well as the MEMO button.

Knit the ribs at one tension lower than main garment if using the G-carriage for the garment and two tensions below main garment tension is using the K-carriage for the garment. Although this is a general rule, each G-carriage is different. Many knit at the same exact gauge as the K-Carriage, and other vary widely. Experiment to find which works with your machine, and record the results for future reference.

IN PROGRESS

If you keep your main bed tilted and are having problems with G-carriage work, try bringing the work in FRONT of the ribber bed, instead of hanging between beds.

When using Trenzado, the g-carriage picks up a piece of nylon every once in awhile and takes it to another needle. Watch for this.

Don’t use a lot of weights. Knit King says the edge weights moved up every now and then are all that’s necessary. The cast-on comb can be handy to start with, but don’t weight it down excessively. Perhaps for the first two or three rows, use only one or two claw weights, then remove the claw weights entirely.

There are varying opinions as to whether or not to let it run long periods of time, or let it rest. It’s probably more a matter of the machine being designed to run approximately 750 to 1000 hours. Then it will likely stop, in the middle of a row, and will need a new motor.

If you must stop the carriage in mid row, drop the bottom housing and the brush. Remover the "arm" holding the needle in place. Carefully pull the needle back and foreword until it releases the stitch it is attached to. Once the needle is removed you can lift the carriage and slowly move it back to the side of the machine.

If you have to rip out, it’s better to take the knitting of the machine, steam it lightly and tip out off the machine.

Experiment with speed. Some leave it on fast, some on slow. Find the speed that suits your life-style and ability to pay attention to the machine.

Use the end needle cams. They usually stop any problems with edge stitches being dropped, as the G-carriage doesn’t have to work so hard.

When increasing on stitch each side, mover the end stitch over one needle, then pick up the heel of the stitch and put it on the empty needle. This will make a smoother transition.

The G-carriage turns when it reaches a needle that is out of work. If you WANT to have a needle out of work, to do cables or ladders for latchtooling later, REMOVE that needle from the needle bed. Cables: On the cable row, twist cables as usual, then use a separate piece of yarn and "hand knit" the cabled stitches only. This eases the tension on the cabled needles and allows the G-carriage to travel over them easily.

While doing color work, lay the yarn sensor back. You can then use the color from the second mast (such as for stripes) and the carriage thinks the sensor is in place.

To knit a turning row for a hem or button-hole band, leave the knitting machine OFF, and it will to a Knit row. If you want a PURL row facing you, turn ON the knitting machine and the memo light. You can knit any number of purl rows with the needle removed and save wear on it as well.

Always wait until the G-carriage as "snapped" into its new direction before turning it off. Then, carefully back it up to the edge of the bed, and turn the machine off. To re-start, turn the machine on, carefully move the G-carriage onto the bed until the G light comes on, and then check your yarn. When all this is set, press the GO button.

To short-row while suing the G-Carriage: If pattern says to short-row 8 stitches on the shoulder 4 times, proceed as follows: Opposite carriage, place SEVEN stitches into non-working position, ~ knitting them back to A with ravel cord. Knit the row with the G-carriage, making certain the stitches in A don’t "creep" into B position. When the carriage reaches the side you have just hand knitted to A, GENTLY pick up the end of the carriage and shift it SLIGHTLY past the last stitch knitted. Now, hand knit THIS last stitch (the eighth stitch of the short rowing) with the ravel cord. Reprogram the G-carriage for one row, and remove SEVEN stitches on the side OPPOSITE the carriage (the other shoulder) with another piece of ravel cord, turn G-Carriage on and proceed through all shaping, ONE ROW AT A TIME. This method provides an automatic wrap to prevent holes, and although it is a bit slow, it is always successful.

PROBLEM SOLVING

Remove the rails for G-carriage work. THE G-CARRIAGE WILL NOT FALL OFF THE MACHINE. Loose rails can cause the Craig to "lift" or "sink" when it gets to the end, and can cause significant problems in pattern reading because the magnet will miss the sensor until the carriage gets back complete on the bed. When doing large pieces, at the end of a row the G-carriage goes outside of the turn mark and turns off the G light on the machine panel. For example: when returning from left to right, the first magnet on t he G-carriage may not "read" as it passes the turning point because it is "tilted"., As the second magnet passes, it turns the light on and begins "reading" the pattern. Now the pattern has been "shifted" over ~ several stitches, because the magnet is late in reading the pattern. This won’t happen on the narrow pieces because the G-carriage light doesn’t go out as the carriage reaches the turning point. Watch the G light as it travels over large pieces of work, if you must leave the rails on.

Static problems may interfere with pattern reading. Try a solution of 1 part fabric softener to 5 parts water and spray around the floor near the machine. Try setting your yarn on a fabric softener square (don’t run it THROUGH the fabric sheet as it may stain the yarn). Buy a small humidity gauge at the hardware store to keep track of the humidity level where you are knitting.

If you push the start button and it won’t go, make sure you have the yarn threaded under the arm which detects when yarn runs out (Yarn sensor located at the top of the mast), make sure the plugs are plugged in and machine is on, and that you have numbers programmed on the row counter.

If you are having problems with a pattern, such as random stitches out of pattern, etc., do the same pattern in a fairisle with some left over yarn. This will tell you if the machine has the pattern correctly installed. If the fault is not with the knitting machine and it’s memory, it HAS to be with the G-Carriage and the way it READS the pattern.

If you haven’t used your G-carriage and it doesn’t work, check the magnets and make certain they are installed correctly. The white portions should face the INSIDE. Just pull them out and turn them around.

Try setting up your pattern as a single motif and see if that helps. Sometimes this will work on large bed situations.

Borrow a friend’s G-carriage and see if the mistakes continue.

Take your G-Carriage to a friend’s machine and see if the mistakes continue.

MAINTENANCE

Make sure your machine bed is level, left to right (it can be tilted). Keep a level on hand and check it routinely, and ad pieces of folded cardboard under the table legs to adjust the table until you level he bed.

Oil the needle latch every once in awhile. Oil the channel which wiggles back and forth on the front of the carriage on either side of the yarn feeder.

White grease may last longer than oil on the needle latch.

Have two needle retaining bars (sponge bars) and rotate them every two or three months. A firm needle bed is a must for G-carriage work.

Periodically clean the yarn fuzz from the brushes and other areas of the G-carriage.

Keep the magnetic sensors located on the back of the G-carriage clean. Wipe them off with a lint-free cloth (such as a man’s handkerchief) moistened with water only.

Routinely wipe off the pattern selecting belt on the back of your knitting bed. If it becomes covered with dirt and dust, or oil, it can interfere with pattern reading.

If you are brave, just open the machine and turn that little magnet counterclockwise just a tiny bit to revolve it closer to the front of the machine. Shipping, sitting on the table bouncing and general movement can unsettle the magnet after a time.

Make certain your gate pegs are straight.

DON’T

Don’t knit too fuzzy yarn. It may cause jamming. If you DO use fuzzier yarns, follow the K-carriage rules and pull the fabric down every five or six rows and make sure you use wax.

Don’t cast on too tightly.

Don’t use knitting yarns that are too thick. They can cause jamming.

WARNING * WARNING * WARNING * WARNING

The G-carriage has a fuse in it. Do not plug the carriage in with the pin-fitting floating and dangling from the coil attached tot he mast. If it hits your tension mast or anything metal, it will blow the fuse. Keep an old-fashioned pencil eraser over it. (the fuse is located in the "gray box" which attaches to the machine).

This same pin is a weak-point. It will break. Leave it plugged in and move the G-carriage to a table along side the knitting machine until you are completely through with it. You may have to release the yarn guide from the tension mast, but this is better than "unplugging" and "replugging" the cord all the time.

More needles are broken during cast on than at any other time.

REMOVE THE TOOLS FROM THE ACCESSORY SPOT on the knitting machine. The coiled cord will pick them up and deposit them in the middle of the bed, to be run over ~ your G-carriage.

Check all screw and nuts on the tension mast. If one comes loose, it will fall onto the bed of the machine and will be run over ~ the G-carriage.

When you AREN’T using the G-carriage, unplug the gray cable and use only the white electric cable to knit in normal pattern. Continued use of the gray cable which goes through the g-carriage speed sensor attached to the back of the machine, will cause it additional wear.

If you find loose screws UNDER you knitting machine, FIND OUT WHERE THEY GO BEFORE ENGAGING THE MACHINE, or the G-carriage. LOOSE SCREWS AND NUTS FALL FROM SOMETHING...FIND OUT WHAT.

NEVER use needles in C, D, or E position when using the G-carriage. Use only A out of work, or B in work lover positions. ANY OTHER NEEDLE POSITION WILL SIGNIFICANTLY DAMAGE YOUR MACHINE/G-CARRIAGE.

EXTRA

Use an old G-carriage needle for latch tooling on and off the machine. It’s easier to use and generally gives more control.

There is no truth to the rumor that the bed must be flat to use the G-carriage. Tilted will work just fine.