Beginner Jacquard Sweater
by Kathleen Kinder
k.kinder@daelnet.co.uk
I think a beginner jacquard
knitter is wise to try a 2 col jacquard first. However, if you
look at my Bargello patterns, you will see that for the majority,
you do not have to punch/mark more than 60 rows, several less - I
worked it that way!
Cathie's note: There are some beautiful samples of bargello
on Roz Porter's page. Go to my Links and click
on her page to view them.
After you have printed out the pattern which you have to punch,
key-in or input to the PPD, stick it on a piece of card. With
another piece of card, cover all but the line you are marking/
inputting. Move up the card to reveal the next row to mark/ input
when you have finished the last. In this way, you will not get
confused or alarmed by marking which does not make sense as a
pictorial image for sb FI makes sense! With my Bargello jacquard
patterns, check the coloured image below each gridded pattern to
ascertain which yarns you are going to use and in what order.
Check the marks on the card. When you are sure, write down Col 1
= say, pink and so on.
When you are ready to knit, see that both beds/carriages of the machine are in good order (clean/oiled etc), check the height of the ribber, insert the fine knit bar. Fit the double bed changer. At the back of the machine slot in the correct yarn brake and thread up the yarns in order according to the pattern and then into the right slots of the colour changer. In the 4th slot of the colour changer, you can thread up col 4 for jacquard if needed, but exchange as necessary with 3-4 ends of MY (Col 1) previously wound off for the welt. Check the yarn tension unit. Does the spring for each yarn colour bounce up and down easily but not too easily? Tighten or loosen as necessary. This tension area is important but is often overlooked.
Tension Swatch - I knit at least 100sts/100rs, for 3-4 col jacquard (often I knit 150 for 3 and 200 for 4!), marking for 40sts and 60rs within that. You can mark a row easily by laying a (long) bit of coloured yarn between the beds. The stitches on the MB only are marked (knitted with WY). Look at my notes on using a household calculator if you need help on that one.Count only the MB stitches, so it is 100sts on both beds; the RB ones are ignored. The 2 sums should balance, taking the 100st x 100r one if there is a discrepancy. You can of course work out the pattern with the aid of a calculator (the computer's in Accessories) and the Magic Formula. Simple DJ sweater patterns are not easy to come by and since you have little choice re. yarn when you do find one, it is better to work out your own garment breakdowns with a surface pattern of your own choice. Be prepared to give time to this. Time taken over a first project means less time on the next!
For the welt- choose to knit an industrial 2 up, 1 down (H5) known as 2x2 with around 3-4 strands of the main yarn. See your manual. Check also for the set-up for bird's eye on the ribber if you are going to use it. Personally, I would not use it on a first garment, so it is Normal on the ribber with the jacquard setting for 2 col on MB or part/slip for 3-4 col. At the end of the welt, bring up the in between needles and you are ready for your double jacquard. RC000. Take the memory/select on a plain row to the left and off you go. See the main weights are balanced within the fabric (don't have any hanging outside the edges down below). Use the side weights. I knit mostly with 2x2/30s acrylic or wool, but I do like 1 end of 2/24 taken with 1 end of 2/30. That is one high bulked with one non bulked - gives a lovely feel to the jacquard. Tension around 4.1 to 5. The weight of the fabric you are knitting approximates to 4ply sb FI !! MLN's suggestion for 1 end of 2/24 produces a 2-3ply fabric.
Knit a rectangle back and front
(basic drop shoulder line, no shoulder shaping this time),
marking the armholes with WY.. On the front, you can tie a piece
of WY at the base of the centre front neck. When you get to the
shoulders, scrap off in 3 sections, the middle being for the
neck. Release from the machine.You can link off with the work
tool, as you sit at ease, the stitches for the 2 shoulders below
the waste yarn, before removing the latter, since you do not want
to overlock (serge). Sew one shoulder together. You can use a
small neat back stitch in a narrow hem if you
can't face a sewing machine or overlocker (serger) finish, but a
linker makes a very good job (use 2 ends of fine yarn).
Sleeves - the increases on the sleeves (push up a needle at each side on both beds, but one only counted), should give you no problem. Finish with WY and link off with work tool as for shoulders.
Neckline - if this is your first one, take a plastic lid from a margarine tub or similar and draw, then cut out, the front depth of neckline with measurements taken from a favourite sweater. Draw with tailor's chalk or similar the outline on the front neck of the sweater piece, going no lower than the WY marker (centre), using the plastic lid as template. I like to tack by hand all round the front neck marking, using fine elastic thread. I draw it in slightly before zig-zagging or overlocking with the sewing machine or overlocker (serger) - I have both. You have to do this - no way out! When you have finished - no-one will see the edge at all.
There are various ways to tackle the neckband. I have 2 ways for folk who are still very much sb knitters :-
1. Take the empty MB carriage to the left of the bed. Yarn is 3 ends of the main fine yarn (sometimes 4, depending on thickness). Open out the sweater,one shoulder seam stitched. With right side facing, poke the needles on the MB through the fabric, below the cut, stitched edge, all the way along the neck edge (should be between 130-150ns average long, worked out beforehand). Now with the yarn and starting from the right, manually knit each needle making a big stitch loop with the yarn as you draw it through. When you have finished, insert the yarn in carriage feed and knit a row on T7 to right, pulling down the fabric as you do so. The carriage should ride over the bulky edge with the aid of the big stitches,.but you can push out the needles to HP and set the carriage to knit back. Now arrange to knit a 1x1 (neater than 2x1) rib to fold over, on P5, graduating tension from say, 4/4 to 2/2. Finish with 2 rs MY on T7 and a WY scrap off. Stitch up remaining shoulder, and side edges of neckband and backstitch down etc...
2. Push up on MB the required number of needles for the neckband. Take back every alt. needle. From those left in WP, push out every alternate needle and do a weaving cast on with WY T7. Knit 9 rows - you may have to use the ravel cord first row or push out to HP to knit back for a row or two. Carr at right. Push ribber up into place P5. Push up alternate needles on RB opposite empty MB spaces. Set controls to knit rib,say 4/4 to graduate down to 2/2. Knit 1 row and hang weights. Do not do any tubular rows. Knit rib to fold over - say, 16-1-16rs. Transfer to MB. Knit 2 rs stocking stitch, T7 in MY. Change to WY. Knit 8 rs T7 and scrap off. The last edge goes on the right side neck edge of the sweater. When you have back stitched that into place, catch down loops of cast on edge into place on inside. In this way, the bulk is reduced. Remove WY "
Best wishes Kathleen
Kathleen Kinder k.kinder@daelnet.co.uk
Feel free to make copies of the
Bargello Lessons for your personal use. The following copyright
notice must appear on all copies
Copyright (c)Kathleen Kinder, 1997, 1998.
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