Tips Set One

What is a good way to put shoulder seams together?

Mary Ide in Kobe (ideym@gold.ocn.nc.jp) shares a great idea with us for those time you are joining live shoulder stitches:

1. Rehang one back shoulder, right side facing you, and pull the needles out enough to put the stitches behind the latches.

2. Rehang the corresponding front shoulder, wrong side facing you. As you add each stitch, pull the needle back to regular working position to make the back stitch pull over the front one, leaving only one stitch on each needle. Be sure to put the right shoulders together (the neck edges should match up) or you'll have to rip out and do over, which is not fun and not easy!

3. Don't cast off. Instead thread the machine and knit several rows of plain stockinette---about 4 for fairly bulky yarn or 6 for finer yarn (about a scant half-inch). Now cast off any way you prefer. Mary's favorite is around one gate peg.

You have just made a little "stretch controlling tape" attached to your shoulder seam, like the twill tape sewn into a RTW polo shirt shoulder seam. It will naturally roll to the back side of the shoulder seam (purl side stitches showing). You can catch the edges in the neck seam and sleeve seam or you can hand sew in down with matching thread. It has the added plus of acting like a super-mini shoulder pad, or more like a sleeve head for the shoulder seam, to give the shoulder line a more straight look. If you are working with tuck stitches, you may want to loosen the tension dial a little.

Others from Cathie:

Looking for an easy way to put afghan panels together?

With one panel (right side facing you), hang as many stitches, beginning at the top of the panel, on the machine needles as you can. With a complimentary or contrasting yarn, ewrap the same needles. Then hang the second panel (wrong side facing you), being sure to line up repeats or designs. Pull needles out to E position (D on Singer/Studio) and knit over stitches slowly using the same yarn as you used in the afghan. Bind off these stitches loosely. Continue hanging the panels until the entire panel has been seamed. If yarn is very thick, try e-wrapping every other needle.

How about a single scalloped rib?

E-wrap cast on at garment tension minus 1 however many stitches are required. Knit number of rows needed to equal one inch. Starting from the left side, drop the 4th stitch and every 4th stitch across the bed. Be sure these stitches unravel to the cast on. Reaching behind the knitting with the latch tool, pick up the 4th rung of the unraveled ladder. Bring this one stitch around, under, and up to the front. Take the latch tool up to the 5th rung and latch the 5th rung through the stitch on the tool. Continue latching each stitch until you reach the top. Place that stitch back on the needle. Repeat for every 4th stitch across the row. This can be used on any edge such as hems, sleeves, collars.

What should I look for when I buy cotton yarn?

Mainly check to see if the yarn will bias. Biasing yarn causes a sweater to twist on the bias (therefore, the name biasing!) and it will tend to pull sideways. If you are buying a cone of cotton, take about 15-18 inches of the yarn, hold it out straight, then bring the top back If the yarn twists around itself, it may very well have a bias.

The second thing to look for is the size number. Unlike acrylics, cotton numbers run with the larger number first: 20/2, 16/2, 10/2, 8/2 and so on. The larger the first number, the thinner the yarn. The second number is the ply. Imported cottons tend to be slightly thicker than their U.S. equivalent.

What if I have a cotton yarn already and discover it is biased?

Some stitches will counteract the biasing tendency. These include garter carriage, most tucks, ribbing stitches such as 1x1 rib or English rib, fairisling with a yarn that isn't biased, and knitting it double stranded with another unbiased yarn. If none of the above works, the best place may be File 13.

Cotton yarn can be a fun yarn to work with. Good cotton feeds smoothly by itself or mixed with other yarns such as wools, acrylics, metallics, or combinations. The one thing to remember when knitting when cotton is to swatch and wash. Cotton will shrink. Without swatching, the knitter may be in for some unpleasant surprises. Also, be careful not to overdry cotton. Fluffing it up in the dryer is fine, however.

Email:  Northtipton Creations

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